In Search of an Endangered Specie

2016 census stated that there were only 125 of them left in the world. Out of which the largest population was between Pokharan and Sam (Pronounced as 'Sum'). The Great Indian Bustard (popularly known as GIB, and colloquially known as 'Godavan') invited us to the Desert National Park, and we packed our bags.

Our 2022 Christmas break revolved around the Desert National Park and the rich cultural heritage of Rajasthan, more specifically Jaisalmer.

The Desert National Park was a different experience for all of us. It was my first time going on safaris in a desert instead of a forest, sand instead of dense forests, canopies of trees, and long grasses it was vast expanses of land with short trees and shrubs. Home to small (not so colorful, but yet pretty) birds and the raptors and birds of prey, including the large migratory vultures and eagles. The Great Indian Bustard is an endangered specie with an estimated 50 of them left in Rajasthan. Seeing her walk (Yes, we did meet her, up close and personal), reminded me of the song "Walks like an Egyptian..." she walked with her head held high and the poise of a model.

Having met her, it was time to head to soak the cultural heritage of the 'Sonar Killa' or the Jaisalmer Fort.

The village of Kuldhara, more commonly known as the haunted village, is en route from Sam to Jaisalmer. It is believed that the Prime Minister of Jaisalmer, Salim Singh, wanted to marry the daughter of the head of the village, and if the parents were against the marriage, he would kidnap and marry the daughter. Out of fear and anger, the villagers who were Paliwal Brahmins left the village and put a curse on it so that nobody else would live there. While there are other theories around the evacuation of the village, this is the typical one that finds a mention in most places and by the tour guides. We did visit the village in broad daylight, and the ruins clearly suggest the evolved thought process of the residents of those times - A garage for the bullock cart, mud-cooled storage (refrigerator), etc. They sure understood science and construction back then. To date, nobody is allowed to be in the village post 6 pm.

With 3 days planned for the city of Jaisalmer, it gave us enough time to soak in the history and culture of the city - the Patwon ki Haveli (5 Havelis for 5 sons), from the time the trade built it to when the government stepped in and ASI took charge of managing it and maintaining status quo, the Nathmal Haveli and how 2 brothers built and carved 2 sides of the haveli - left and right have clearly different carvings and architecture - the 7th generation lives here today, the 99 bastions of the Jaisalmer fort, the 5 Jain temples and lots more. Food is never far in Rajasthan and we tried a whole lot of local cuisine - Pyaz Kachori, Dal Batti (of course) , Dahi Pakodi, Ker Sangri, and Mangodi Papad; all accompanied by gallons of water when we missed requesting lower spices.

Wildlife, biting chill, culture, heritage, and food - Time to get back to the grind!